I mentioned that my visits to Vienna related to the student competition where I was judging. As a result, the dynamic is different to that of a cultural trip.
I was based last July at the Artist Hotel, near the university. The hotel was very good, and in a quiet street. If you might be interested, recommend the signature king room.
A very nice quiet district, away from the touristy centre, with local restaurants, one actually next door. Reasonably walkable to the Museums-Quartier and the Inner Stadt, and metro if not. The area is Josefstadt, and contains a wonderful church, beautifully situated, called the Maria-Treu parish church, or the Piaristenkirche, where Haydn and Bruckner once played. I don't know if you are into churches -I am very much so. This is not about religion, of course: I find that it is the best way to get a feel for a city's past and therefore to an extent its present. About 5-10 minutes away is the wonderful Votivkirche, and on the way another church where Schubert played. Also, I often light a candle to beam out good thoughts.
Vienna as a place is a bit smug and pleased with itself -not in a bad way I hasten to add. Very clean, and the tourist centre is a bit showpiece. Nice parks, Burggarten, Heldenplatz and Rathauspark. Art museums, in my subjective view, in order of attraction: Belvedere, Albertina, Leopold, Kunsthistorisches, Secession House. Never got to Schonbrunn palace, said to be very good. I did find myself in Beethoven's flat by chance!
https://www.wienmuseum.at/beethoven_pasqualatihaus
Prague
I think this is at or near the Strahov Monastery, but I found it by chance.
Quiet walk down from the hotel past the castle and Loreta Praha, before hitting tourist hell, in my case. The city seemed to be filled with half the population of Japan. It was July. As a result I didn't spend much time in the centre/old town.
Can mention a few things I enjoyed:
St Nicholas Church, St Agnes Convent *, Church of Our Lady. Mucha Museum.
Trade Fair Palace/Centre of Modern and Contemporary Art, which I got to by bus or tram directly from the Savoy, past the Sparta Prague stadium. Very interesting building away from the crowds. The "Kavarna Liberal Café"!
Trams are great, and they are the way back to the hotel from the old town.
Lennon Wall..kitsch but nice!
Art nouveau architecture. Photo of extraordinary building which I have failed to label, perhaps a railway station?
An amazing mini Eiffel tower up on the hill -must visit. Petrin Tower.
Green spaces, islands in the river.
A smart restaurant just on the Mala Strana side from Charles Bridge: Kampa overlooking the river. I had lunch there with a friend from CDRC who also happened to visit Prague after the competition.
Free clean public loos everywhere including metro stations.
Remember long walking south of old town, Karlovo Namesti, Nove Mesto, Vysehrad, more green spaces. I think the main National Museum was under restoration at the time.
Two novels by Simon Mawer: The Glass Room and Prague Spring.
I hope these recollections, which I have enjoyed collating, may bring the odd inspiration.
Charles
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